Our penultimate day was spent at the Candlelight Memorial. It was memorable for meeting the former President of Zambia, Kenneth Kaunda. He was quite delightful and warmly greeted us every time we bumped into him. He was staying at the same hotel and allowed us to accompany him to the mausoleum of his friend and fellow freedom fighter, President Banda of Malawi.

Kenneth Kaunda has been one of the most out-spoken African leaders in the fight against Aids. When his son died of Aids related illnesses, he made this public and also went himself for Aids testing. Secrecy and stigma is a fundamental barrier to HIV/Aids prevention. It stops people wanting to know their status and when they do, from sharing that knowledge.
The morning started early when we, and the Global Health Council team bundled together into Gerald’s truck to travel to the CiVo stadium. There was great excitement surrounding the ceremony and in particular the arrival of Malawi’s President Mutharika, surrounded by men in black suits wearing dark glasses. The President toured the information booths, which sadly were not open to the general public.

After candle lighting, dancing and speeches, the stands were pulled down and everyone dispersed quickly.

The following morning we bade a sad farewell to Malawi. Back in Johannesburg, xenophobic rioting was taking hold of the townships. Safely tucked away at the airport, we waited for our flight back home reflecting on this life-changing experience.
A couple of weeks on and we thank all those that we met. The wonderful people of Ilinge seemed so grateful to us for visiting, but personally, they have given me far more than I could possibly offer them.
Thank you.

One of the aims today is to find time for a proper swim…..

Three quarters of the crew headed off very early to the Lighthouse Project leaving me to do battle with Avis to change our two inadequate vehicles for one with tyres big enough to cope with these roads (oh, and brakes, a complete exhaust and mileage under 100k miles would be nice).

The Lighthouse provides care and counseling for those infected and affected by HIV/Aids. Malawi is one of the most severely affected countries. About 15% of those aged 15-49 years are infected with the AIDS virus making it the leading cause of death in the most productive age group. Over 1 million adults and children are infected leading to around 80 000 deaths annually.

The Lighthouse integrates existing services and initiatives into one centre. TB is the other major health problem here and this is the first specialist centre in Malawi providing care and palliative support.

Meanwhile, back at the hotel, Avis have come up with the biggest 4×4 in the world. It has AVIS plastered all down both sides in 1m tall red letters. So much for trying to be inconspicuous! The vehicle appears to work. Gerald is now very happy and looking for pot holes!

Filming at the United States Agency for International Development (USAID), the equivalent to our DFID. Met a very interesting man called Jones from Population Services International (PSI). He had driven 3.5hrs from Blantyre, the other big city, where, incidentally there has not been any water for 4 days.

Next, we ventured down to the craft market to pick up some links. Tourists seem a bit of a novelty in Lilongwe. Particularly those with very big cameras. We make many instant friends. Of particular note is Alex’s Chelsea-supporting mate who rather worryingly for him, has relations in Brixton.

Hard to escape without spending some of our wodge of Kwacha so we have ordered some wooden carved signs for the office from ‘Mike and his uncle’. They are going to deliver them tomorrow.

It is very hot today…we might yet get that swim….

Sam is getting a bit fed up of wearing her yellow filming shirt….

In the afternoon, we visited the Baylor clinic, a very new, very shiny clinic supported by Baylor University, TX and the drug company, Abbot. There was a party going on with Malawian rap stars. This weekend club is for teenagers who know their status. They come together, have fantastic fun and support with the staff and each other.

After Baylor, we had to pop back to the market to pick up some other bits and pieces. En route to the hotel we parked up by a shanty town and filmed the quickest ever link. Gerald is a very good getaway driver…..

By the time we arrived back at the hotel tired and dirty it was sadly, too late for a swim… maybe tomorrow. Tomorrow is the big Candlelight Memorial Day. It is hard to work out exactly what is going to happen but word is that President Mutharika is going to attend. It’s all very hush hush as there was an attempted coup last week. Bit of a problem when you can’t publicise a public event.

Anyway, we have to meet at 7.15am tomorrow to go over to the stadium. So off to bed.

Two days of manic filming.  We have visited the football stadium where Sunday’s Candlelight Memorial is to be held. They are holding a run through and there are groups of school children, boy scouts and adults waiting to practice their songs. The President of Malawi is expected on Sunday, so the excitement is rising…

The International AIDS Candlelight Memorial is one of the world’s oldest movements for HIV/Aids remembrance, awareness and community action. The first memorial was started in 1983 by four men in San Francisco to remember friends who had died of a mystery virus. Now 1,200 volunteer Candlelight Coordinators in 115 countries host their own vigils involving tens of thousands of people.

The Global Health Council (GHC) oversees the Memorial and this year, the 25th anniversary, Malawi was chosen to host the focal event because of the success that HIV/Aids policies have had at all levels. The organisation Manet+ has the unenviable task of coordinating this snowballing event!

Laura and Todd from the GHC have arranged some visits for us to see some of the progress that has been made. So off we trekked in our Toyota Camry into the unknown. – vehicle not quite adequate for purpose…..

Not even our visits around Illinge and Ezibelini quite prepared us for what we have seen. The difference here is that there is no social support from the Malawian government. The country is one of the 5 poorest in the world. As we headed off the tarred road, the car bottom bumped and scraped on the home-made speed bumps and dived into the potholes.

The only occupation in this un-named community seems to be stone breaking. Children of all ages sit at the side of the road bashing stones for building purposes. We passed women carrying great trees or huge water containers on their heads, children running barefooted in ragged clothes and men just hanging around. It is a hand-to-mouth existence with any money that does come in, immediately feeding the family.

Our first stop in Paradiso Projects – a voluntary group that tries to reduce stigma and discrimination caused by HIV/Aids to a population where this is one of the main barriers to treatment, prevention and care. Paradiso was started by Mara, who lives here. She lost her job when she was diagnosed HIV+ and rejected by friends and family.

Mara took us all to Partners in Hope. This is a clinic where they send those that they have think may be infected with the virus. Patients have a choice between a free clinic and one where a nominal charge is made. Alex and Gerald were asked to film a woman who had come with us through her visit to the clinic. She had been counselled prior to the visit and had come voluntarily. The guys followed her into a closed room where the doctor tested her. It only takes 20 minutes for the result and as expected, it was positive. She will now return to the clinic on Monday for more counselling, testing and the drugs that can keep her healthy.

Gradually, in a small way Paradiso is making in-roads into the community. We shared a support group meeting and learnt all about the homemade remedies that those infected with the virus can use to stay healthy both before and after they manage to get hold of ARVs. And certainly it was making a difference to those attending the meeting.

While I attended the meeting with the GHC folks, Sam, Alex and Gerald headed off over a hill with a nurse to make a home visit. Here, there was not even the luxury of a candle – it gets dark at 5.30pm. There was no bed, just a rug on the floor. The man was ill, so no money and therefore, no food to feed the family of around ten mouths.

As darkness fell, I admit that I was worried that I had seen the last of the rest of the crew. This is not a place to be left in at night – particularly with in a Toyota Camry as your only transportation out. Now we know why all these NGOs spend their precious money on expensive 4×4s – it really is a requisite of the job. Roads are not really roads here.

But they did come back. More singing and dancing.

Then we bumped our way back for a shower to wash off the dust and dirt –  how different lives are.

I’m writing this from the departure gate at Johannesburg where we are waiting for our Air Malawi fight. We’ve had to come to the gate by 11 for our 12.15 flight because apparently the pilot may decide to leave at 11.15 instead! We’re only fractionally concerned that no one else seems to be on our flight , they obviously know something we don’t as the equivalent SAA flight is full.

So its our big transfer day and we were up before sunrise and not sorry to leave the B+B behind. We found the airport without getting lost at all and Gerald was delighted to finally get us into a Wimpy for our breakfast.

So far our first flight has gone without hitch, and now we have just been called to our Malawi flight so I will continue this when we arrive there….

Moni – Hello! Here we are, we arrived to a very green airport, and got through immigration without a hitch. The plane as it turned out was quite full and we have learnt why we were called so early – to encourage people not to be late. But that seems to have had limited success as we were still boarding stragglers after our departure time – good old African Time again.

After a few interesting moments at the car hire and Liz getting an enormous wodge of local currency we hit the road and arrived at our hotel. Lilongwe on first site appears to be very green and very spacious. We passed a wide variety of transport on the short journey, many people on foot of course, but many people on bikes carrying incredible loads like small trees and huge logs, they weave around under the heavy loads and so we gave them a wide birth, there are also old trucks spitting out black smoke, laden with all manner of freight in huge volumes.

The hotel itself is nice and Gerald, Alex and I went for a very very brief and cold dip in the pool last night, it was certainly refreshing.

We then met up with the Global Health contingent out here, Laura, Todd and Maurice. We all dined together on brai at the hotel, it was delicious but needless to say it didn’t compare with Gerald’s.

Before bedtime Alex hosted a mini screening of the messages which the Global Health team was really delighted with. Then finally to bed for a well earned rest.

To find out more about the 25th Annual International Candlelight Memorial click on the logo:

Today began with an early start for Gerald, Alex and Sam. David woke them up with a cup of tea and they set off to film the sunrise. Sam has filmed some challenging links for Stephen to pick up when he goes to the Global Health Conference in Washington at the end of next week. We are filming a package for that conference plus links that make it look as though Sam is here in Africa at the same time that Stephen is on the ground in the States – the wonders of television!

There are so many stories to tell that we could make a complete documentary. After breakfast, we packed up, said farewell to Roni and Jesse, then headed off to Illinge’s Multi-Purpose Hall, about 30 mins from Bholotwa. This community space is today home to a travelling healthcare facility – the Health Train. It is brought here by two organisations, the Small Projects Foundation and Phelophepa, which means ‘good, clean health’. Both bring healthcare to areas where it is not readily available. The Health Train comes to Illinge once a year. Today, the train had to stop in Queenstown and make the last part of the journey by road. It was as if the circus had come to town!

There were tents for eye tests, general medicine, dentists, HIV testing and counseling, gardening, nutrition, a pharmacy and one massive marquee where there were presentations all day about HIV/Aids and remembrances for Candlelight. We met Dr Paul Cromhout, the inspiring South African behind this initiative. Usually the people of Illinge would have to travel to Queenstown to see a doctor, some 30 km away. Of course they don’t go, because the choice is often between taxi fare or feeding the family. Medicines, which are supposed to be free are sometimes prescribed by healthcare workers who use their position to make a little extra themselves.

Sam interviewed Paul, walking through the crowd. As they progressed, they attracted growing attention. Both adults and children crowded round to see what all the fuss was about! Lots of the children (and the CCW) that we met yesterday came up for a hug, which was lovely. The queues to see the medical specialists grew by the minute. It was first come, first served and if anyone hears me complaining about the NHS again – shoot me!

We finally persuaded Monica and Heidi to be interviewed. So, back to the project house for a little peace and quiet. Heidi was really shy and I was worried that we were spoiling her birthday. But they are doing such fantastic work here, we should all be shouting about it!!

Sadly it was time to go. We said our farewells and look forward to welcoming Heidi and Monica in London this autumn. We managed to find our way back onto the right road this time. An uneventful journey except for Gerald having to do a little financial management for Ciaran on a layby in the middle of nowhere. Arriving at our B&B, we thought longingly of our lovely retreat at Bholotwa – no comparison (the only thing in this place’s favour was the warm running water).

An early start in the morning as we leave for Malawi, so off to bed.

Day 3, or what we prefer to call singing and dancing day! After a goodnights’ sleep, although slightly fitful on my part thanks to the snake episode, we grabbed breakfast and all set off to Ilinge which we first visited yesterday morning. The team consisted of Monika and Heidi, David and websedgetv. Liz briefly mentioned H+M before, but I think we have all been touched by these amazing ladies. They have come to an area where AIDS is rife and have built up 3 centres, helped over 30 Community Workers (CCW) get trained and touched the lives of hundreds of children. What these 2 modest and unassuming women have achieved in the face of a seemingly huge and daunting task is truly inspiring.

We arrived at the Ilinge Isibindi project, where many of the CCW were waiting for us, although we were ahead of quite a few of them…..African time! They had come in their traditional clothes for us, which are the kind of clothes they would still wear for big occasions. We were treated to a wonderful array of traditional singing and dancing! Not only do they have great voices and rhythm, but they seem to sing as an ensemble effortlessly a good analogy for the way their work together. Alex filmed a lot of the music, and Gerald has unearthed a new vocation as a sound man. The CCW’s got the hang of the filming very quickly-even offering to do entire songs again for the benefit of cut aways! In the afternoon Alex played back some of the mornings filming for the CCWs a ‘very raucous affair’ apparently.

Then suddenly out of nowhere we were swamped with 150 children, singing and dancing of course and also playing. Gerald wasted no time joining in the netball, a definite Wing Attack in the making. Meanwhile Alex and camera proved to be a massive attraction. Alex reports he has found himself a replacement should he ever need one. Other children were delighted by Liz’s camera, they had an amazing time taking photos of themselves………she has just downloaded 351 photos.

Amidst all the ebullience we all had a sharp reminder of the reality of these children’s lives. One young boy who was orphaned a while ago arrived and Monica pointed out that the bed bound grandmother who they had been living with and caring for them had died this week. Leaving this boy and his elder brother of 16 years old alone. This is what is known as a Child Headed Household and is sadly an all too frequent occurrence. After more games and singing the children went home and we took our leave, it has been a wonderful day and the smiles and the attitudes of the children will stay with us all for a very long time.

I’m aware I have already gone on for far too long but I must quickly mention 2 other fascinating gentlemen we met today: Reverend Jesse Sage who was here at the beginning of this project and helped rebuild the retreat we are staying in. He has led an amazing life and as an English vicar was deported from South Africa during apartheid, he has seen the success and growth of the Isibindi project. As has Rev Lisa Nsokuma, who has lived and worked in the area for many years, both were full of praise for the projects, the CCW’s and above all for H+M.

We’ve just finished a special dinner for Heidi’s birthday, we cooked something special and original……a Brai again, every night we seem to have more and more food! Finally we have been inspired by the singing and we are hoping to come back with a special websedge song, Alex has retired early to work on his composition. We’re planning to get up for a sunrise walk so we’re calling it a day on what has been an incredible day……until tomorrow.

Later in the day we visited Ezibelini. This is the township for Queenstown.

The children had arrived for their after school care. They play games, sing songs and have a chance to talk to their CCW about any problems. Unlike Illinge, these children are not necessarilly orphans. Many were brought to the safepark having been found playing on the local dump sometimes with dead animals. The children put on the most wonderful dance and singing show. The highlight was the Gumboots dance, which was a traditional miners dance in wellies.

At the end of the day, we returned to the safe haven in Bholotwa to great excitement. Confirming Sam’s worst fears….Roni had discovered a poisonous adder crawling across the grass to where David had been reading. Fortunately it was now hanging on the fence after a sharp pop on the head. Gerald cooked it. Evidence below…

Where it all ends and it all begins - the graveyard. It stretches as far as the eye can see. And the graves are freshly dug earth. Mostly the graves bear birthdates in the 1970’s onwards. A whole generation is missing in this place. It is where the families come to grieve, to remember and to celebrate. The Xhosa way elevates death and reveres ancestors. But it is also a place of tragedy. The most visible sign of the terrible cost of HIV/Aids on these people.Illinge was a product of Aparthied. Political ‘troublemakers’ were uprooted from their homes, dumped on this land behind a mountain and forgotten. Now with 60 per cent unemployment, massive social problems and HIV/Aids, the Isibindi projects is a little oasis in the midst of this community.

From the graveyards, which are in the middle of the community, Heidi and Monika took us to the building where the project is based. A low, unassuming building that only stands out from the shacks around because of the brighly coloured play equipment and the white painted bricks that flank the little gardens.

As soon as we arrived, we were serenaded by about 15 women and three men with lively Xhosa songs. After introductions and Xhosa handshakes we followed then in to hear about their work. These are the childcare workers (CCW), selected from the community to work with the orphans of the HiV/Aids pandemic. It would be so easy to become completely overwhelmed by the exent of the problem or to throw quick money for quick solutions. But the Isibindi model works from the inside out, empowering the community to help itself.

Heidi and Monika arrived three years ago and are already recognising that their work here will have an end, when the childcare workers are qualified and leaders have been identified to carry on the work.Each of the men and women had their own harrowing stories to tell both from their case studies and from their own families. The support they give one another was tangible. These are women who would have no other destiny other than to be left at home, caring for extended families, in abject poverty often with absent or abusing partners. With the qualifications they will receive, they have futures and touch the lives of many around them as inspirations that there is hope of a better life and that change is possible.

Next, two of the workers took us on two house visits. First to a breeze block shack - recently built by the government with running water - except there is no water (it has to be carried in buckets from a distance away). The house was 3 rooms, in total about 4 times as big as the office kitchen. This houses 8 people. Children move in as parents die to be cared for by extended families. One two year old boy here had been sent down from Johannesburg but the grant that comes with him hadn’t caught up yet. Apparently families often argue for these children because of the grant that comes - a tiny, tiny amount of money.There was nothing in this house but it was absolutely spotless. The CCW visits this family daily to get the children dressed for school. They help with the whole business of life - applying for grants, hospital visits, sorting out complex family entanglements, even accompanying members to hospital and being with them when they die. Just as we were leaving, a girl came back from school carrying a loaf of bread that she had been given at school because the family has nothing to eat. There is no-one in this family able to earn anything.

Our next visit was to a girl of maybe 15 who was looking after her 9 month old disabled baby. Her CCW had helped her arrange physio and all the other stuff that babies need. Alex was very impressed and learnt a thing or two! Back to the centre and a quick game of football with the balls that we brought.

More experiences to come….

Day 1 of our visit to this beautiful land. We arrived this morning after an 11hr flight into Joburg. First scary moment was nearly missing our connecting flight due to missing tripod flight case. Undetered by keen porters, Alex and Sam guided the trolley up the escalator and we made our flight to East London. It’s on the east coast of South Africa about half way down.

Second scary moment… We managed to miss the right road and took a 100km detour past the most dangerous school in the country (we later found out).

We are staying in a township called Bholotwa in an old missionary building, which was derelict for years. Now the most wonderful place. Basic and beautiful. The water is running low, we eat by candlelight because the generator keeps the neighbours awake and we cook for ourselves. Life is ruled by the sun here. We were warmly welcomed by Heidi and Monika, two amazing women, of whom more, later and David who is also over here from the UK, Roni the housekeeper and her rather flea ridden dog who has a great smile. Gerald and Alex were soon into the swing of things collecting wood for the brai. Gerald has been freaking Sam out with tales of poisonous snakes and scorpions…..

The house is surrounded by mountains and our distant neighbours live in the shacks in Bholotwa. As the sun went down, the stars came out. We located the Southern Cross and the view of the Milky Way was incredible. So our first impressions are of the deafening silence and the darkness.

Tomorrow we are visiting Illinge, site of the first Isibindi project in the area.

View of Bholotwa: